Real Offers, Fast
Sell Your Truck
Got a kei truck, mini truck, kei van or JDM import to sell or trade? Send us the details and we will come back with a no-obligation offer.
Get a Quick Quote
Start here and we will come back to you for the detail and photographs.
Would rather talk it through? Call (640) 203-5504, Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm CST, or email sales@truckbedcentral.com.
How It Works
Sell In Four Steps
- 01
Tell us about it
Make, model, year, odometer reading and the unit it is in, transmission, drivetrain and the chassis code. Then photographs — the more honest, the more accurate the number.
- 02
Get your offer
We review what you have sent and come back with a no-obligation offer. No obligation means exactly that: you can sit on it, sell elsewhere, or tell us it is not enough.
- 03
Accept and schedule
If the number works, we arrange collection at a time that suits you. Have the ownership paperwork to hand at this point, because that is what slows deals down.
- 04
Get paid
We handle the paperwork on our side and you get paid. If you are trading rather than selling, the offer comes off the price of the vehicle you are buying instead.
What We Buy
Japanese kei trucks and mini trucks, kei vans, mini dump trucks and other JDM vehicles. If it came from Japan and it is small and useful, it is worth asking about. These are the nameplates we currently hold the most of, which is a fair guide to what we know best.
- Honda Acty 223
- Daihatsu Hijet 205
- Subaru Sambar 158
- Suzuki Carry 140
- Mitsubishi Minicab 80
- Honda Vamos 10
- Suzuki Every 10
- Daihatsu Atrai 8
Not on the list? Ask anyway. Something unusual is not automatically a problem — it just takes a conversation rather than a form.
What To Send Us
An offer is only as good as the information behind it. Send this and the number we come back with is one we can stand behind rather than one that moves when we see the vehicle.
- Make, model and year, and the chassis code from the plate — on a Japanese import it looks like DB52T-109625 rather than a 17-character VIN.
- Odometer reading, and whether it is in kilometres or miles. Say which; do not convert it for us.
- Transmission and drivetrain — manual or automatic, 2WD or 4WD.
- Engine code if you know it (E07A, EN07, EF, F6A, 3G83 and similar).
- Whether it runs and drives, and anything currently wrong with it. Known faults do not kill a deal; discovering them at collection does.
- What ownership paperwork you hold and whose name it is in.
- Your city and state, so we know what collection looks like.
Photographs That Help
Eight shots is usually enough. Daylight, no filters, and photograph the faults as carefully as the good bits — a truck with honest photographs of its rust gets a firmer offer than one where we have to assume the worst.
- Front three-quarter and rear three-quarter, in daylight
- Both sides, square on
- The bed floor and tailgate, and the load area of a van
- Underside and frame rails wherever you can reach
- Engine bay
- Interior, seats and dash
- A close-up of the odometer
- Any rust, dents, cracked glass or previous repair, up close
What Moves The Number
Body and frame condition first. On a vehicle that has spent decades working, corrosion in the frame rails, bed floor and cab corners matters more than the odometer reading does.
Then whether it runs and drives, and how it drives. Then drivetrain and transmission — four-wheel drive is what most buyers come here for. Then the odometer, and whether that reading is in kilometres or miles, which is the single most common misunderstanding in a kei truck valuation.
Then paperwork. A vehicle with its ownership documents in order and in your name is a straightforward transaction. A vehicle without them is not necessarily a dead end, but tell us up front so nobody wastes a collection trip.
Trading rather than selling? Say which vehicle in our inventory you are looking at when you get in touch, and we will quote both sides together instead of separately.